What is this bug

This insect flew into my house in Singapore while it was raining. Size is around 1.5 inches. What is this?

This is a beetle Coleoptera, possibly from the family of the 'ground beetles' Carabidae
As this family is one of the most speciose animal families, pinpointing an exact species will be difficult, especially in the tropics. I think your specimen belongs to the genus of Carabus, they look similar as you can see on the picture from wikipedia commons below:
- Long legs.
- Often a distinct pattern of dots and stripes on the shields.
- Long antenna with many segments

EDIT: As @theforestecologist pointed out, the body shape more resembles the family of Meloidae. Most Meloidae don't have dots on the shield, but for example lytta does.Файл:Lytta_aenea.jpg">

Sow Bug and Pill Bug Behavior

Sow bug, pill bug, woodlouse, potato bug: these little crustaceans have many names and live in many different places, from forests to gardens to the grass beside your sidewalk. In this experiment, design some invertebrate real estate and see where they really like to live.


How do sow bugs and pill bugs behave differently?


  • 6+ sow bugs and pill bugs
  • Small plastic terrarium with lid
  • 1 ft. black poster board
  • Tape
  • Half of a peeled potato
  • A 2-inch square piece of sponge
  • 1/4 cup wet leaves
  • 4 cups organic potting soil
  • Spray bottle


  1. Create a habitat for your bugs. Put 4 cups of organic potting soil in a terrarium.
  2. Add ¼ cup wet leaves to one corner, a 2-inch square piece of sponge in another, and half a peeled potato in another.
  3. Surround the habitat with a foot of flexible black poster board on the outside. The cardboard will keep things dark in there.
  4. Next, you will need to find some sow bugs and pill bugs. How can you tell the difference? Sow bugs have a feathery appearance on their sides, while pill bugs look smoother and more rounded. When you pick up a pill bug, it may roll into a ball. Look under plants, rocks, and wood in the garden. If you can&rsquot find any sow or pill bugs, put some old pieces of wood in the garden, wait for a week, and then look underneath.
  5. Once you have your bugs, place them in their habitat. Let them get used to their new home for a day. Now, you&rsquore ready to experiment!
  6. Remove the black piece of paper from around the terrarium. Look in the terrarium for sow bugs and pill bugs. What are they doing? Look under the wet leaves, the potato, and the sponge. Are there any bugs under there? How many of each kind are in each habitat?
  7. Move the container very gently back and forth. What happens now?
  8. Pick up one of each type of bug. What do they do when you pick them up?
  9. After a few days, take a look at the potato and the leaves. Do you notice any changes?


Both sow bugs and pill bugs seek out damp places with rotting vegetation. Pill bugs roll into a ball when they are scared.

Sow bugs and pill bugs are amazing little creatures. They&rsquore crustaceans like crabs, but you can often find them in your garden. They are also called isopods. All of these roly-poly crustaceans are in the scientific order Isopoda. Isopods actually breathe through gills. Since they don&rsquot live underwater, they need to find wet places where they can keep their gills damp.

Sow bugs and pill bugs eat rotting plants. They have a fairly broad diet, and they live in their food, which means that you&rsquoll often find them munching on damp, rotten plants. They make little holes similar to those that a slug might make. When you moved the leaves and the potato, did you see any of these holes?

What happened to the sow bugs and the pill bugs when you removed the black piece of paper and exposed them to the light? The animals may have run under the leaves or potato when you exposed them to the light. They prefer to live in dark places where predators like birds can&rsquot see them.

When you moved the container and picked up the bugs, this is when the big differences between pill bugs and sow bugs started to show. When pill bugs are threatened, they roll up into a ball like an armadillo. This allows them to protect their heads by tucking it into the ball. Some species of sow bugs also roll a little, but they are more likely to play dead. If you pick up a sow bug, it may stay flipped on its back and slightly rolled up for a minute or more before it starts moving and turns over again.

Going Further

How could you design the ideal sow bug or pill bug habitat? What elements would you put in?

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You assume the role of a predator bird. After you press GO, click on bugs as fast as you can using your mouse. You may also keep the mouse button depressed, and move the cursor around the world.

You can watch your consumption by watching the "Bugs Caught vs. Time" plot. As its slope decreases, you efficiency (or, in other words, your rate of bug consumption) is decreasing. Also, the time to catch a batch of bugs is plotted in the "Time to Catch 10 Bugs" plot.

Try to consume bugs as fast as possible to remove any "deliberation" on your part as a predator. The camouflaging effect will emerge more clearly if you aren't taking your time trying to find bugs that typically would be more difficult to find.

Bugs have 3 genes that determine their phenotype for color. One gene is RED-PIGMENT-GENE-FREQUENCY, another is GREEN-PIGMENT-GENE-FREQUENCY, and the last is BLUE-PIGMENT-GENE-FREQUENCY. The more frequently the gene for a pigment is coded for, the stronger that presence of color is in the overall blend of pigments that results in a single phenotype for coloration (determined by an RGB [Red-Green-Blue] calculation).

With each bug you eat, a new bug is randomly chosen to reproduce one offspring. The offspring's gene-frequency for each of the three pigment genes may be different than the parent (as determined by the MUTATION-STEP slider).

Lab 11 Animal Behavior

Ethology is the study of animal behavior. This involves observing an organism’s behaviors, interpreting what is observed, and research different organisms. Ethologists study and observe an organism’s reaction to the environment around them.
Biotic and abiotic factors are limiting factors that control the maximum size of a given population. Favorable conditions are desired by an organism of its home environment. Because of this, an animal must search for the environment to fit its structure and lifestyle. This is called habitat selection.
An animal can display many different types of behaviors, two being taxis and kinesis. Taxis behaviors are deliberate movements toward or away from a stimulus. Kinesis is a random movement that is not oriented toward or away from a stimulus. Taxis behaviors are exemplary of the physiological needs of an organism. Other behaviors are agonistic, aggressive or submissive actions toward another organism or mating behaviors.

To observe animal behavior in this lab, isopods will be isolated in a controlled environment. Isopods, more commonly known as pill bugs, are crustaceans with a hard exoskeleton, seven pairs of legs, and antenna.
Drosophila embryos develop in the egg membrane. Once the egg hatches, the new larva emerges and feeds on the medium. The larval stage has three instar stages. After undergoing all these stages, the larva molts and becomes a pupa. The pupa pupates and emerges as an adult fly. A fly reaches adulthood about two weeks after hatching, and lives as an adult for only two weeks.

The following materials will be needed to complete the experiment: 10 pill bugs, hydrochloric acid solution 1%, potassium hydroxide solution 2%, 1 animal behavior tray, 2 pieces of filter paper, 1 camel’s hair brush, 1 magnifier or a dissecting microscope, and masking tape.

a) First, place the 10 pill bugs into the animal behavior tray and take general observations of their movement and interactions for at least 10 minutes. Make a list of the data you have collected. Sketch a drawing of the dorsal and ventral surfaces of an isopod and label any recognizable structures.
b) Now, label one side of the behavior tray A, and the other B. Place five pill bugs on each side and for 10 minutes record how many are on each side of the tray. Make observations each minute for 10 minutes. Record this data in a table. Calculate the average number on each side of the tray during the 10-minute period. The taxis behaviors have just been recorded.
c) Next observe pill bugs in an altered environment. Using a chemotaxis, the behavior of the organism should differ from the last part of the experiment. A chemotaxis is the orientation of an organism in relation to the presence of a particular chemical. Remove the pill bugs from side B of the tray. Lay a piece of filter paper moistened with 1% hydrochloric acid solution over the surface of the tray.
d)Now allow the pill bugs to roam freely through the tray and observe their behavior. Starting with five pill bugs on each side of the tray, make note of the number of pill bugs on each side of the tray every minute for five minutes. Make a table to show the data collected.

a) General Observations
-The larger pill bugs climbed over the smaller sized ones.
-Movement mostly around edges of tray.
-Legs move in quick, fluid motion.
-Use antenna to sense closeness of other isopods.
-When flipped on back side, will kick off from ground or other pill bugs to flip back over.
-Seven pairs of legs.

Table 1 Pill Bug Taxis

Number of Pill Bugs in Side A Number of Pill Bugs in Side B Observations
1 8 2 All moved to one side, then to the other
2 5 5 Climbing on top of one another
3 4 6 Some not moving five in one pile along the edge
4 1 9 Most moved to side B, then less movement
5 4 6 Little movement then became more active
6 2 8 Still mainly on side B
7 8 2 Many moving slower
8 8 2 Separated out, less grouping
9 6 4 Slower moving
10 7 3 Large groups sitting with no movement
Average 5.3 4.7

b) Experiment Information
Hypothesis: When a piece of filter paper moistened with a weak acid to one of the sections of the tray, the pill bugs will move into the acid-free area and stay away from the acid.

Design: A small amount of a weak acid will be dropped onto filter paper and placed on one side of the behavior tray. Five pill bugs will be put on each side and reading on the number of pill bugs on each side will be taken every minute for 10 minutes.

Data: Table 2
Pill Bug Taxis with Altered Environmental Condition

Number of pill bugs on side A Number of poll bugs on side B (side with acid) Observations
1 7 3 Some backed away when they sensed the acid
2 4 6 More mobile on side with acid (side B)
3 3 7 Ones on side A not as active not moving much
4 2 8 Less movement not very active
5 4 6 Little movement on side B
6 1 9 Sitting against wall in group
7 2 8 Not very active on side B
8 0 10 Most not moving
9 0 10 Only one active
10 0 10 Barely any movement

1) Based on class data, what environmental conditions do pill bugs prefer?
The pill bugs seemed to like the acid and stayed in the area where the acid was concentrated.

2) How do you think pill bugs sense these conditions?
Isopods used their antenna in sensing these kinds of alterations in the environment.

3) Are there any results from Part 1 of the lab that would justify your hypothesis?
Pillbugs did not seem to be attracted to acid.

5) Would you find pill bugs in each of the following environments?
a) In a pine forest under a log – yes, pill bugs are attracted to acid
b) In a garden in northeast U.S. under a pile of straw – yes, pill bugs like dark places
c) Under a house in an arid part of Arizona – no, pill bugs like moist environments

Error Analysis:
No apparent mistakes were made.

From this experiment, the behaviors of isopods were observed and investigated. Through the acid test, it was found that the pill bugs found the acid desirable and stayed in areas with it. This proved the hypothesis that was stated was incorrect.

Set the model up with INITIAL-BUGS-EACH-SPEED set to 1. Slow the model down and watch where new bugs come from when you eat a bug. You should see a new bug hatch from one of the five remaining and it should be moving at the same speed as its parent.

Wait in one location for the bugs to come to you by placing the predator in one location and holding down the mouse button. All bugs that run into you will be eaten.

Chase bugs around trying to catch the bug nearest you at any one time by holding the mouse button down and moving the predator around the view after the nearest bug.

Research Projects

The effects of native predators and parasitoids on the exotic brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) versus the native brown stink bug (BSB). Citation

There are a number of predators and parasitoids in North America that effectively control native stink bugs, but in most areas they have only a limited impact on populations of the exotic brown marmorated stink bug. However, we continue to study these native natural enemies in hopes of improving their effectiveness in controlling BMSB.

NATIVE PREDATORS: Research by other labs in the southeast and mid-Atlantic have identified a wide variety of generalist predators that consume BMSB eggs. The list includes certain species of crickets, katydids, ground beetles, lady beetles, earwigs, ants, assassin bugs, mantids, and jumping spiders, as well as less familiar insects such as minute pirate bugs, lacewings, and damsel bugs. To monitor predator populations in North Carolina, we deploy yellow sticky cards for one-week periods in both managed and non-managed landscapes. Cards are returned to the lab and all significant specimens are recorded.

Some native predators of BMSB or BMSB eggs. Clockwise from top left: assassin bug, Florida predatory stink bug, praying mantis, lacewing larva, lady beetle, tree cricket, jumping spider, katydid. (All photos: Steve Schoof/NCSU)

Sentinel BMSB egg mass placed on wild sycamore to detect egg parasitoids.

NATIVE PARASITOIDS: Parasitoids are monitored with both sticky cards and laboratory-produced “sentinel” BMSB egg masses, which are placed on a variety of host trees and crops. Sentinel egg masses are collected and brought back to the lab before any BMSB or parasitoids hatch. Any parasitoids that hatch from sentinel eggs are identified to species. So far, only native species of parasitoids have been detected in North Carolina:

  • Anastatus reduvii
  • Anastatus mirabilis
  • Ooencyrtus sp.

Anastatus reduvii on a penny. Wasp parasitoids are small and are incapable of stinging humans. (Photo: Emily Ogburn/NCSU)

Telenomus podisi is plentiful in North Carolina but is not very successful at parasitizing brown marmorated stink bug eggs, although it readily parasitizes and hatches from the eggs of a native pest, the brown stink bug. In the lab, Anastatus reduvii parasitizes all the BMSB eggs that are given to it, but it parasitizes only a very small percentage of sentinel BMSB eggs placed in the field. A. reduvii lives in wooded habitats and therefore rarely encounters BMSB eggs laid in or near crops. We are further studying the biology of A. reduvii and investigating the potential of this native parasitoid for more successful control of BMSB in the future. xxxxxxxxxxxx

Trissolcus japonicus, also known as the samurai wasp, an exotic natural enemy of BMSB. (Photo: Elijah Talamas/ARS-USDA)

TRISSOLCUS JAPONICUS: Our lab is also looking for natural expansion of an exotic parasitoid, Trissolcus japonicus, into North Carolina. Also called the “Samurai wasp,” this tiny parasitoid coevolved with BMSB in Asia and is much more effective at controlling BMSB than native North American parasitoids and predators. In 2014, T. japonicus was found in the US through accidental introduction, presumably having arrived with BMSB. It has since been found in more than thirteen states and is being studied in quarantine at the USDA. By law, T. japonicus may be released in states where it has been naturally found, but not in states where it hasn’t. If T. japonicus is found in NC in the future, we can start researching the best ways to harness its potential as a biocontrol agent, just as states like Michigan are doing.

Spores of Nosema maddoxi, a microsporidian, infecting an adult BMSB. Spores are the small, cylindrical, capsule-shaped objects, one of which is indicated by the red arrow. Photograph taken using a microscope with phase-contrast at 40x. (Photo: Emily Ogburn)

NEITHER PREDATOR NOR PARASITOID — NOSEMA MADDOXI:Nosema maddoxi, a species of microsporidian, infects BMSB. Microsporidia species can negatively impact their insect host in many ways, including: shortening the insect’s life span, reducing the amount of eggs females lay, and reducing egg viability. Nosema maddoxi only infects four stink bug pests: BMSB, brown stink bugs (Euschistus servus), dusky stink bugs (Euschistus tristigmus), and green stink bugs (Chinavia hilaris). This microsporidian species produces spores which then infect healthy stink bugs, usually after healthy bugs ingest the spores while feeding on infected bugs (dead bugs, eggs, etc.) or on the feces of an infected bug. Further research on the effects of Nosema maddoxi on BMSB and its distribution and prevalence in wild populations of stink bugs is underway.

Cage containing A. reduvii wasp parasitoids. Corks allow insertion of test tube containing food (10% sugar water) and BMSB egg masses for parasitization. (Photos: Emily Ogburn/NCSU)

LABORATORY COLONIES: We also rear lab colonies of native wasp parasitoids (primarily A. reduvii) for continued research into their ecology and biology. We are researching differences in parasitoid and predator control of BMSB eggs in different crops in North Carolina, and we have performed bioassays on the effects of organic pesticides on native parasitoids. Future research will focus on understanding how management practices can increase natural enemy effectiveness in North Carolina agricultural systems.

What Causes Superbugs

Any species of bacteria has the potential to turn into a superbug. Superbugs are becoming increasingly more common, and are the results of the misuse of existing antibiotics. When a person does not use an antibiotic correctly as prescribed (such as taking antibiotics for viral infections or not finishing all of the medicine), the bacterial infection is not completely destroyed. Whatever bacteria remains is a strain that has evolved to survive the antibiotic that was used. The more often someone uses an antibiotic, the more susceptible they become to infection with a superbug.

While many superbugs can be eventually treated successfully, as the prevalence of these hardy bacteria rises, the risk of dying due to antibiotic resistance is estimated to increase. Early in 2017, a Nevada woman died from an infection that was found to be resistant to 26 different antibiotics—all antibiotics available in the United States. She had contracted the infection in an Indian hospital that she visited to treat a fractured leg but was hospitalized for the infection in the United States upon her return.

Not surprisingly, the case made headlines, and the fear of superbugs was stoked by the widely reported fact that there was nothing available in the United States to treat her infection. In the wake of that story, but not for the first time, public health organizations warned that superbugs pose a real and potentially catastrophic risk to humans.

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64 Responses to Elm Seed Bug

I live in Pacifica Ca. and have observed these bugs on my property in the past 3 – 4 years. I have not seen any this year. We only see a few at a time , less than 10, Ours are black and orange, we call them SF Giants bugs

There are a lot of look alikes. You may be seeing large milkweed bugs or boxelder bugs that look similar.

I have a large elm next to my house and have had a problem with these bugs for eight or nine years now. They get into the house in large numbers and are a real nuisance, but mostly on the side next to the elm tree. Can you tell me how to distinguish them from the boxelder bug? They are definitely not Milkweed bugs. My house is on the Russian River in western Sonoma County, CA. If these are indeed Elm Seed bugs, is there someone I should contact?

Collect some of the bugs and put them in a freezer.
Take them to your county extension agent for identification.

California Dept. of Food and Agriculture or your County Dept. of Agriculture.

I live in Boise, Idaho and my house has been swarmed by this bug. I do not have Elms on my property but my neighbor does. If we spray the trees in the Spring will this help to control the numbers. I have been fighting the infestation for 3 weeks now and am about ready to move. I have sprayed the exterior three times which has helped keep the masses at bay, but they are still coming into my house-I guess through the window glides-even though I have sealed them as well as I can. Any other advice? Thanks

It is a new problem, so solutions are being tested. The vacuum cleaner is your friend.
Bugs can crawl back out the hose so empty the bag or keep it closed so they cannot escape.
An effective trap would be helpful.

I also live in Boise and even in January, I find these bugs every day on my windows and flying around the house. I have bought a small shop vac just for the purpose of vacuuming up these pests- I put a small amount of soapy water in the bottom of the shop vac so they will drown! They leave their marks on the windows and the house siding. Why are they active even in winter? We have had a spell of very cold weather (-5 º F) and it did not seem to stop them at all. How are they staying alive in the winter since they feed on elm seeds?
What is an effective trap?

Good idea with the shop vac. Their metabolism slows in the winter and they can go long times without eating.

For some brown marmorated stink bugs, people cut the top off a 2 liter soda bottle and invert it to make a funnel into the bottle. Duct tape the top to the bottom. A cheap batter led light attracts stink bugs in the dark, like a closet or attic. I don’t know if it will work on these elm bugs.

Soapy water in the bottom of the shop vac is a good idea.

Thanks for your reply and the idea of the soda bottle funnel! I will try it.

I live in boise also and im having these bugs all over my residence

I am in Boise Id also and with this 110 degree heat the Elm Seed bug is working overtime! This may sound odd, but I have an older home that has an 2-4 inch area between the screens and window. I sprinkle the area with salt. This stops the majority from making their way in…although I don’t know the reasoning as to why. It also stops the ants from coming in. Obviously the smarter bugs simply walk up the wall and around the salt, but they are few and far between, not the huge numbers as before. One could try a window ledge if they have one. My bathroom used to get the most and this has stopped them completely! I am going to try to wipe down an area that I don’t care about it getting ruined with heavy salt water to see if that will stop them from coming in at an area where there is no ledge to put the salt.

Hopefully the salt doesn’t rust or corrode your screens. The screens without the salt may be effective. Ants often forage indoors early in the season but then stay outdoors when more food is available. People over estimate the effectiveness of ant treatments as a result.

In the Midwest triple digit weather last year, insect activity was depressed in the really hot weather. The bugs like air conditioning, too!

Beck Anderson (@BeckAndersonID) says:

I live in Boise, too. The hotter the weather — the more of these bugs I find in my house! I thought this year they had moved on — didn’t see any of them. Alas, we hit triple digits, and they are trying so hard to get into the house — what is gross is that they will hide behind picture frames and under items on the floor (my sons’ remote control car, for ex.) — they mass there. Yuck. We have put dimataceous (sp?) earth at the corners of the doors and in the window tracks — the old house windows are an easy way in. Hate them! Any other advice for getting rid of them is much appreciated!

I have them at my house in Boise, Id too- Never had a problem until today. I am pretty sure I accidentally let them in yesterday when I went outside to water plants and had not completely closed my screen door. This evening I have killed about 50 of them, and they keep showing back up in groups of 3-8 of them, crawling around the ceiling near my ceiling fan. Makes me feel like they are hiding in the hardware and coming out when I remove/flush their friends. Quite gross. Disappointed that until yesterday I never had a problem with these pests, but then again- it’s been over a 100 degrees for five days and they are trying to escape the heat! The article I have included below also recommends the shop vacuum with soapy water. We are two years new with these invasive species from what I read (Elm Seed Bugs new to the US, found in Idaho during the summer of 2012), so I think there may be a learning curve in removing them otherwise. Best of luck and please share any secrets you have! Too bad a fly strip or other attracting mechanism isn’t available to gather them!

I live in Nampa, Idaho surrounded by Elm trees. I have these bugs in mass quantities. Been using the shop vac, my friendly spider bros who hang out in corners, and used a can of old insecticide I had from a couple of years dropped them very nicely. I thought it was Raid Ant and Spider..had a brown plastic lid. I am kicking myself for tossing the empty can, because the next can of Raid Ant and Roach I bought did nothing and I am unable to find what I thought I had used last. They are attracted to light so I have white LED night lights near the spiderwebs and they seem to be going there and becoming spider food. I will try the pop bottle trap too.

i live in Boise with an elm three in the back yard. these bugs are every where .i found that a mild dishsoap and water solution stops them in their tracks but i have to keep doing it every day they keep coming!i like the vacuum idea and i wil try the diametrious eath thing too.

I am also a Boise resident with the Elm bug problem. It is now late February 2014 and I’m already finding a few bugs around the house. Our house is old with aluminum siding covering original wood siding and a few old windows. It is really hard to seal an old house per instructions. And they seem to get through new vinyl screened windows too. They also have gotten into attic vents that I don’t want to block or seal. It would be helpful to post a summary of what works. Does spraying bugs outside on your house with soapy water kill them? Do you know if birds are attracted to them? I would not use a bug killer spray if it results in killing birds that eat poisoned bugs.

They will get hungry and leave in the spring. You might contact Idaho extension to see what they currently recommend for control. Brown Marmorated Stink bugs can be captured in light traps. Cut the top off a 2 liter soda bottle. Attach a battery operated LED light to the inside of the bottom. Fit the top as a funnel leading into the bottom. Duct tape it together. Placed in a dark attic or a dark room it attracts Brown Marmorated stink bugs. It may work for elm seed bugs but I have no reports. It may be worth a try.

I live in Boise and I am going to try this! Thanks for the tip.

Boise resident here and Idaho Extension didn’t have any ideas either since any insecticide used had to be directly applied to bug and even then many were useless. So, this brings me to your trap. I think I missed something. What prevents them from just crawling back out? And the Elm Seed Bugs I encounter mostly seem to come in at night when it is dark. They especially like my bathroom widow so I thought it was due to the humidity level. I don’t have the same issues around any of the other windows or doors I have here. I don’t have the attic invasion like some do. Last year I stopped a majority of the bugs from getting past the window seal by using sea salt and water mix sprayed daily on the inside and outside of the frame as well as sprinkling some salt in the corners I thought they might be getting through. Someone was concerned about the damage this would do to the wood (which is what I have since it is an old house) and it didn’t hurt it. I suppose those with metal or aluminum would have to reconsider this method. At least I wasn’t finding the bugs hidden in my shower curtains, or falling from my towels when I moved them or dropping on my head when I walked in in the mornings! One more interesting note is I have a window/screen in my bedroom door that does not have a tight seal at all and rarely do I find an Elm Seed Bug here, so again I am wondering if it isn’t a moisture issue? On the contrary I do know they do not like direct water since they attempt to “fly” away from any wet spray and huddle in when attempting to wash them down the drain. There has to be some sort of level they are seeking. Anyway…just my two cents.
Good luck everyone!

They are terrible this year all over! Has anyone tried one of those bug zappers? With the purple lights? I was wondering if that’d help any.

I tried the soapy water that I heard about and it definitely kills these elm seed bugs on contact, I’m not sure there is a residual effect though. I plan to run this through an old bottle of weed and feed that you hook to a hose and spray my entire house down.
I used dawn dish soap and hot water, doubting that the temp of water has much effect as I believe it’s more the soap that clogs the bugs ability to breath, since most bugs tend to breath from the sides of their body. The soap must clog these respiratory openings causing the bug to suffocate.

In Mountain Home here I have a 1.5 acre bug zapper not one elm seed bug in it and the shady side of the house is covered with them the only thing i have found is spraying around doors and windows is with military grade mosquito repelant

The recent heat has driven the bugs into the house. I keep a spray bottle of diluted Dawn around all the time and that appears to have some lasting effect. I intend to pressure wash the areas they like with Dawn. We live in the city of trees in the north end in an old house with aluminum over old wood siding and it is hopelessly vulnerable. Seed clean up in laughable. The trees product pounds of seeds that blow everywhere.

Do these bugs have any natural enemies besides human? How do people live with these bugs in areas of the world where they are native and have more experience?

On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 9:42 PM, Living With Insects Blog wrote:

> Jerry commented: “In Mountain Home here I have a 1.5 acre bug zapper > not one elm seed bug in it and the shady side of the house is covered with > them the only thing i have found is spraying around doors and windows is > with military grade mosquito repelant” >

I have a camper down elm tree aka “umbrella elm” and have had it for 15 years+ I have never seen this bug on that tree! This bug infested us 2 years ago we are now on the 3rd year of infestation. I can’t believe they come from my particular elm tree maybe a different variety of elm? My neighbor has the same or more in numbers than we do but we both want to eradicate them indefinitely. If anyone knows of a solution we would love to hear it please.

I live about an hour away in payette idaho. I’ve delt with these little demons more than once! This town is infested with them. I’ve found that Tempo kills them fast and usually only have to spray once a season when they start getting bad BUT you have to spray the trees! At D&B Supply you can get the Tempo and a tree sprayer that goes on the hose. Tempo is pretty expensive, $40.00 a bottle and only 8 ounces of it. But it’s very consentrated and should be enough. Used it on four different houses in payette and they were pretty much gone after one spraying…BUT YOU HAVE TO SPRAY THE TREES! And if I had one of those piece of crap trees I’d burn it to tthe ground.

these darn elm bugs are on my hit list! I kill as many as I can any way any time any were. I smash them, I drown them, I poison them, I burn them with fire. I’m going to clean up any tree seed area I’m aloud to! they are smart and fast like little ninja’s avoiding me killing them! dropping, running, pretending to be dead, flying! landing on me none stop in some places. how do I do yard work, cleaning, weeding, mowing grass for my elders with out getting mad at these darn elm tree bugs… this means war!
Think and plot on these bugs. make plans to take any tree seeds out of the equation the best you can. kill there nesting area’s many times over again till they are all obsolete.
strongly dislike tree bugs, all of them. skeet skeet skeet!!

They are so bad out here in Middleton, Idaho!

I’ve found that Lysol spray or 409 seals barriers and practically stuns them dead. Hit up ur local zamzows I bought a $20 jug of this stuff they said kills elm seed bugs inside and outside. So far the combination of the three periodically seems to be dropping this annoying little bastards!

I live in Nampa and we are having a big problem with these pests this year. Only found a few in the house last year. This year I’m killing 20-30 a day.

I live in an upstairs apartment here in Payette Idaho, an omg my apartment is being over taken by these elm bugs. A pest control guy came out the other day said it is there mating season an there is nothing you can do. I did have my maintance man spray some type of bug killer on my back porch an it has seemed to kill them so far, but oh my word i just swept my kitchen an i must of swept 100 of them up, there out of control. someone help me how can i get rid of them inside.

Sorry Kelsey, there is no cure except time. We are on our 3rd year of these pests and the only thing I have found to kill them is dawn dish detergent but it only works on contact nothing more! I’ve noticed once they come inside they seem to die in a shirt time then you vacuum them up, beyond that you just wait for the heat to subside and they seem to go away.

Check and plug as many entrance areas as you can Ask your landlord to caulk your windows and door seals. I know it sounds deadly but for awful infestations, a daily insecticides spraying around your doorways might help. Make sure the aren’t coming in through your vents! If they are you better be talking to that landlord again! Before you, your guests or any pets enter your home brush off head to toe and don’t forget to check the bottom of shoes/feet. Don’t squash as the Sent supposedly brings more! Hope this help!

I too live here in Boise & these little devils are in full force again for the third year. No solution yet but not ready to give up the house to them. We use liquid laundry detergent mixed with water in a spray bottle and that is a way to kill them if they get contact with the solution. The battle can be discouraging sometimes. We found that they were coming down the chimney in droves so we built a fire one evening with the AC running and burned them out good. Sat there with a vacuum and sucked them up as they ran out the front of the fireplace. Biggest thing that I found is that we needed to cut all the trees away from the house because they traveled through the trees to the house. Even though the trees are Maple trees that are around the house. Cannot find their specific entrance yet as they are smart and run or fly when they hear me and the vacuum. Have a video camera setup today to see if I can find out more specifically where they are getting into the house at. We use clear packaging tape to seal doors & windows that we feel they are passing through but then we cannot use those doors or windows any more. Be careful that you don’t seal the good air out of your house and end up with a carbon monoxide problem. We need to find out who their natural enemy is and get rid of them that way. Unless that bug is even worse!

Thanks for all the information, I talked with my Garden Center and they suggested Sevin spray, however I have been using Sevin powder for earwigs and it hasn’t harmed the Box Elder Bugs. I have 3 silver maples in my yard. I will try the soap and water as I don’t want them in my home, so far I haven’t seen any inside but outside they are always there mating. I live in Carson City, NV so I guess it is an all over problem. Thanks for all the information.

I live in Nampa, ID as well and have two acres with many many Elm trees. We have had horror-story level problems with them coming down our chimney, or in the camper trailer my dad lived in for the past 3 or 4 years. Last year (2013) I cleaned up all the seeds I could in the spring and we thought the bug problem was a tad better than the previous year. I also used diatomaceous earth, malathion, raid flying insect spray, soapy water, bayer tree and shrub insect control—nearly everything we could think of—all of these things work well—but the bugs just keep coming by the thousands. This year, I didn’t get out to clean up the debris and spray malathion early in the year when the bugs were still miniscule red dots, and the problem was worse again this year. I think we will take a good number of our elm trees down this year, in addition to treating some of the ones that are left (particularly around buildings) with the bayer systemic treatment this coming September, like recommended. They are definitely worse on structures that are right under a tree. I treated the tree over our deck last year and noticed a marked improvement on just the deck area, but they are still everywhere–and we have tons of trees we don’t want to cut down. And Bayer insect control is NOT cheap, so we have to select just a few trees to treat. We also bought some removable caulk to caulk all the storm windows, and even the few new vinyl windows we had installed last year. I vacuum a lot, but when I don’t have time to get a vacuum out, I grab a couple of inches of tape (any kind–masking, duct, packing) and lightly press the tape on the stray bugs so they stick, then fold the tape over so they don’t squish—so we can avoid the stink. The whole family has spare rolls and pieces of tape handy in their areas, so we can get get rid of the onesie-twosie bugs everywhere. OH YEAH—we got chickens last year and a few of them absolutely love the bugs. We put them in our woodshed every morning and they eat tons of elm seed bugs by the hour–then turn the bugs into protein-rich eggs! We’ve talked about getting about a hundred more chickens to help us. It is definitely a constant battle. The kids have named one particular chicken “Vacuum” because she loves elm seed bugs so much and is so quick at pecking them up before they can run and hide.

Hi, I’m reading your post years later in 2020, but hoping to find out what breed of chickens you have. Our chickens don’t like the bugs. My wife runs around the house 12 times a day crying and vacuuming like a crazy person. We’re defeated and ready to move.

Randy I gave up on soapy water spraying and sucking them up with a vacuum. After three seasons of getting nowhere I bought bug killer from a local feed and garden store called Zamzows. I had doubts about anything working on these creatures. I also am against using chemicals for the most part. It came down to them or me. The bug killer worked extremely well. I found hoards of them balled up in a garden shed that must have been their primary nest. I also sprayed around the eves of the house where they congregate as well as windows and doors. This knocked them down and has lasted two or three years now. I occasionally spray along a wood fence but don’t have to spay around the house anymore. There is hope!

Randy I failed to mention that I live in Boise Idaho. My elm seed bug problem started back in 2013. The bug spray at Zamzows is their primary bug killer product and they still have the same stuff. I bought the big gallon container that includes a spray nozzle. It worked very well for me and once you get on top of the problem it seems to keep them in check. I see a few here and there but nothing like what you have described and I once experienced.

Crobar in Twin Falls
My neighbor to the West and upwind from us has a huge Siberian elm or as my grandpa used to call them, “piss elms”. In the Spring and just when the billions of seeds are ripe, we get a huge wind and have a huge blizzard of seeds all over our yard and fill up our rain gutters. The seeds grow like weeds in our garden and flower beds…and now we have the bonus of the elm seed bug.
The only thing that works for us is vacuuming and glue traps we got from Amazon. We place these 5″ x 8″ traps on our window sills, on the floor by the doors and tape some to the walls. They get hundreds of the little bastards on them and to some people, the decor of a bunch of filled up traps might be repulsive, to me they are beautiful!
The traps are: “PEST PRO MOUSE GLUE BOARDS 75 COUNT $26.99” from Amazon. Try ’em, you’ll like them.

I recently purchased a house in Salmon, Idaho and I too am being visited/invaded by these bugs. When the weather warms even a little, in they come. They crawl in under the door jams, and window slides. I went to our county extension and they said the only thing to do is vaccume them up and then dispose of them. What a pain. I exchanged the land of perpetual rain for the land of crawing bugs. Ug, hate them.

Salmon, ID – After working a 12 hour day without air conditioning I came home to my deliciously cool home with what looks like billions of these flying, scampering, annoying little bastards everywhere. The majority are on the exterior of my home loitering around the windows and doors waiting for the unsuspecting human to invite them inside. They also adore the cooler shaded areas where they converge in enormously large masses. This is the first year we have had to deal with this issue and believe me it is an issue. My husband discovered that dawn dish detergent mixed with water in a spray bottle works wonders on box elder bugs so decided to give it a try on these wee beasties. It works but not for eradication purposes as you have to squirt each and every one of them. I am going to copy the guy who is going to spray his whole house down with a dawn/water solution and an old miracle grow hose attachment. I will let everyone know if I succeed or fail.

We are in Salmon Idaho and my house is infested with these little pests! I finally caved and had the exterminator come over and spray. I’ll be doing foggers in the attic and the crawl space this fall. My walls and windows are a mess with the marks they leave.

I am so thankful for all your input. My casitas are in Santa Fe, New Mexico and the elm bugs have been horrific this season (early August 2015). Vacuuming them every 5 minutes off of 4 large windows/screens wasn’t doing it. So far the best solution has been to spray with a solution of Dr Bronner’s Peppermint soap, about a tablespoon to a quart of water. I happened to have it on hand and after reading about using Dawn effectively, I thought I’d give it a try. Many bugs dislike peppermint so it a double whammy for them. I sprayed it in the sills and all over the glass, screen and around the outside of the doorways and window openings. I found some in the gutter and in the pebbles which line the roof of the casita. Also seeing these bright red, smaller bugs that look a bit like small ticks. I wonder if they’re somehow related. I’m letting the glass look dull and soapy for now, maybe the peppermint will repel them.

The bright red ones are the baby “nymphs”, so yes they are related! Kill them too.

Biological control

Bigeyed bugs (Figure 4), Geocoris spp., are an important predator of the southern chinch bug. It has larger eyes and is wider than thesouthern chinch bug. Other reported predatory bugs, including Lasiochilus pallidulus, warehouse pirate bug, Xylocoris vicarious (Hemiptera: Anthocoridae), and some generalist assassin bugs also play a role in keeping check on the chinch bug population.Predatory earwigs and imported red fire ants also help prevent outbreaks of southern chinch bug populations. Certain other materials, such as Beauveria bassiana, a fungi that attack insects, can be used to control southern chinch bugs as long as the thatch and soil remain moist.

Figure 4. Aptly named, the bigeyed bug has larger eyes than the southern chinch bug. Photo: Bradley Higbee, Paramount Farming,

The parasitic wasp Eumicrosoma benefica is an important natural enemy of southern chinch bug in other parts of the Southern U.S., but it has yet to be confirmed in Georgia. The year-round activity of E. benefica has reportedly curbed the populations of southernchinch bug in Florida. It is critical to conserve natural enemies ofsouthern chinch bugs by avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides and by using proper cultural practices and resistant cultivars.

Rice Bugs

Rice bugs are the major pest of paddy. Bad smell comes out from the body of this insect.
Systematic position of Rice bugs is given bellow:
i) Phylum : Arthropoda
ii) Sub-phylum : Mandibulata
iii) Class : Insecta
iv) Order : Hemiptera
v) Scientific name : Leptocorisa varicornis.

Life cycle of Rice Bugs

There are three stages in the life cycle of Rice bugs, those are as follows:

The female rice bugs lays eggs on the upper surface of the leaves in 10-12 rows. After 6-8 days, the eggs hatch into nymphs.

Nymphal stage

Nymphs are very small but look-like minuscule adult. Wings are absent in the nymph. This stage continues for 17-23 days after that nymph develops into an adult stage.

Adults stage

This stage of the insect is narrow and stretched out. It is about 15 mm in length. The body is light green in color with two pairs of wings. One pair of fine antenna is present on the anterior end of the body. Adult is very active during the morning and in the evening. The adult Rice Bugs may remain alive for five months. The life-cycle of this insect is completed by 4 to 5 weeks.

Damaging stage and damaging nature of Rice Bugs

It has been practically observed that both the nymphal as well as adult stage of Rice bugs are causing damage to the paddy plant.
In the early young stage of the paddy plant, there is a formation of white milky fluid in each grain of the ear head. During this period, both the nymph and adult suck this milk from the grains by their sucking mouth. As a result, there will be no formation of rice grain or partial formation of rice grain. In this way, they damage the paddy plant in the field.
By their bad smell presence of Rice Bugs in the paddy field can be identified. The attacking grains remain erect instead of dropping. Attacking plants in the paddy field can be absolutely detected by these two symptoms.

Distribution of Rice Bugs

The Rice Bugs are distributed throughout the rice growing areas. In the forests as well as in wild grasses, this pest breed heavily and so large number of Rice bug both adult and nymph attack the surrounding paddy field during the milk stage of the paddy grains.

Controlling measure of Rice Bugs

The control measure of the insects Rice Bugs are as follows:

Mechanical control

Adult and nymph of the Rice bug can be collected from the paddy field by small hand net and they are then destroyed. Light trap can be set up surrounding the paddy field and the insect pest is attracted and died subsequently.

Chemical control

Insecticides like 10% BHC are applied by duster in the affected paddy field and its surrounding area. Generally per acre 12 kg of 10% BHC dusting is applied which gives a good result.

Biological control of Rice Bugs

The insect like the Tiger beetle uses Rice bug as their food material. Hence if tiger beetle is released in this attacking paddy field then the Rice bugs can be controlled to some level.

Watch the video: what is this bug (January 2022).