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I am trying to find the name of this plant. I am attaching the relevant images. Thank you for your help.
Location: Hyderabad, India
So after searching a bit, I think this plant is of the genus Ficus:
I am still unaware of the species but the nearest I could find was Ficus retusa. I hope I have been of help.
With the Help from Taimur in above answer, I was able to deduce that the picture that I posted belongs to Ficus Benjamina.
20 Different Types Of Lavender (With Pictures) & How To Grow Them
Grow it in your garden, in pots, or on your terrace and you too can have that Mediterranean sunny peace typical of Provence that only lavender can create.
There are 47 species of lavender in all with over 450 varieties, but the main types are English, French (or Spanish), Portuguese and lavandin. They have different qualities and even smells, and even differing visual qualities, habits and needs.
Often, the hardest part of growing lavenders is deciding which type of lavender is best suited for your climate and available growing space.
What variety should you plant in your garden?
To give you an idea we created a visual guide including the top 20 most popular types of lavender plants to help you to choose the best variety for your conditions and needs.
Read on to learn more about nine different types of lavender and a few of their common varieties along with tips on how to grow.
You may be thinking that artichoke green has to look and have the exact same color as its aforementioned namesake, but artichokes are slightly brighter than this color. Artichoke green can look a little pale when you first see it, about a mix between gray and green, but incorporate it in your design and you’ll find yourself staring at a soothing green color that can complement every element and style that exists.
RGB 143, 151, 121
CMYK 5, 0, 20, 41
Part of the fuel for Philodendron mania is how easy they are to maintain. Certain species may have particular needs, but most have similar requirements. Once you learn how to keep one Philodendron happy, the door is open.
Philodendron care starts with open, well-draining soil, warm temperatures, and slightly moist soil that never stays sodden. Let the top inch or two of soil dry out before rewatering. Pay close attention to yellow leaves, a common sign of overwatering.
The plant does well in moderate to bright indirect light, but keep them out of direct sun. Darker-leaved Philodendrons can handle lower light, but variegated plants usually need brighter conditions.
As a tropical species, they do appreciate higher humidity, but most can adapt to average conditions. Modest monthly feedings with a balanced fertilizer during the spring and summer growing season are generally sufficient.
Philodendrons are typically resistant to pests (but not immune). One thing to remember: They are poisonous, so keep them away from pets and children.
If you’d like to get some of these beautiful Philodendrons, buying online is a great option. They ship really well and the variety available is so much better than anything I can find locally. Click here to see the beautiful selection of Philodendrons available from Etsy (link to Etsy).
1. Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron Hederaceum)
The trailing vines of this adorable Philodendron grace windowsills and hanging baskets across the world. It’s the classic beginner’s plant, adaptable to a range of light or humidity conditions, and forgiving of benign neglect (but not overwatering!). Read my Heartleaf Philodendron care guide for more info.
The Hederaceum’s fast-growing, heart-shaped leaves are two to three inches wide when trailing, but they can grow to over eight inches wide if allowed to climb. Juvenile forms may have lighter bronze-toned leaves.
The Heartleaf Philodendron makes a beautiful hanging plant with vines that reach four or five feet indoors. Multiple individual plants are often potted together for a fuller look. They respond well to being cut back if leggy or “bald” on top and propagate very easily.
Formerly called Scandens, Oxycardium, or Cordatum, the Heartleaf Philodendron is sometimes still sold under those names. There are many attractive varieties.
Pet-Safe Plants for Your Garden
Whether you want to grow your own food or create a serene outdoor space, gardening comes with plenty of health benefits, much of which stems from Vitamin D exposure.
Just a half-hour in the sun can produce between 8,000 and 50,000 international units of vitamin D in your body, which can impact overall health and well-being. Getting dirt under our nails has also been shown to reduce the risks of heart disease and dementia.
Of course, growing our own food also creates a positive food environment and encourages us and our kiddos to eat healthier. Some veggies are even A-okay for our furbabies and certain herbs are anti-inflammatory.
Consider adding the following pet-friendly plants to your outdoor herb garden.
Types of Variegation
Before we showcase the variegated monstera varieties, let us take a look at how variegation can be described.
There are three types of variegation in terms of color:
- White variegation is simply white. Albo comes from the Latin word Albus meaning white. The monstera borsigiana albo is the prime example of this.
- Yellow variegation is the aurea variegation. Aurea is the Latin word for golden. The monstera borsigiana aurea is the type example of this.
- Light green variegation is referred to as the sport variety. Some have popularized this coloring as the mint variety. This is where all the different shades of green meet. The monstera deliciosa sport is an example.
The color variation is brought about by the genetic mutation in the cells. The green leaves have more chlorophyll as compared to variegated leaves.
There are two basic ways to describe variegation in terms of color:
- Marble variegation is how the patterning goes for marble. You can see the wavy pattern of different colored pigments in the leaves. This can show in both leaves and stem.
- Half-moon or split-leaf variegation is when the leaf shows an equally split color in glorious green and milky white. Quite satisfying to look at.
I’ve held you out long enough, here are the fantastic variegated monsteras and where to find them.
Benefits And Drawbacks
Perennial (cut and come again) vegetables are low maintenance. These crops usually do not need as much care as annuals do.
They can practically “take care of themselves” once they are established in the right environments and are more resistant to weeds, drought, diseases and pests.
Perennial vegetables help in building your soil. A great part of planting these cut and come again plants is that they help you build your soil.
Because they often don’t need any tilling, they aid an intact and healthy soil food web.
This includes hosting some important soil life such as some animals and fungi. They can even improve the water holding capacity, organic matter, porosity and soil structure when well mulched.
There are many more benefits but let’s consider a few drawbacks too.
Some perennials take some time to become established.
Before being ready to provide you that bountiful repeated harvest you seek, they may require several years to grow.
If you have a very small garden, you may have to do some extra planning to include these crops for want of space.
Ease of taking over your garden: because some of these cut and come again plants are so low maintenance, they can easily overrun your garden like weeds.
A good number of them self-seed freely and can, therefore, multiply rapidly and “escape” into other parts of your garden or neighbourhood.
Having considered some benefits and drawbacks, it’s time to dive into the list. Shall we?
How Long Does it Take Spirea to Grow?
There are many types of shrubs and bushes you can grow. Spirea is known for being fast growers, and are a great choice if you are wanting a mature-looking garden quickly. If you take good care of your plants and provide them with proper care, you can expect established and mature plants within a couple of years.
Spirea bush is also said to grow better and faster when planted with other spirea bushes. It is recommended to plant them in groups of at least three from a landscaping point of view. No matter how you choose to grow them, though, you’re sure to fall in love with their gorgeous foliage!
Black-eyed Susan Perennials
The black-eyed Susan is also a popular perennial flower. it is a climbing plant which grows in the form of vines. It has a long blooming period. When you grow them indoors, the bright red, peach, ivory, pink, and apricot shaded blooms will refresh your mood.
There is heavy blooming on black-eyed Susan vines and there are perfect perennial climber plants. People who have lots of available space in their yard are advised to plant them along the fences and paths. They make the entire view a spectacular one.
Varieties of Black-eyed Susan
The most popular variety is goldsturm. These are such wonderful naturalizing perennial plants that start to bloom midseason. If you have these along with some echinacea and maybe some sedum right in front of them you get an absolutely stunning display.
There are also a lot of varieties of annual or tender perennial Rebekah’s that are absolutely beautiful. A lot of them don’t survive in zone five. Examples include cherry brandy, Denver sunset, Cherokee sunset, and Irish eyes. These beautiful group of plants also attracts pollinators. I notice honey bees and butterflies on them all the time.
Comments 20 comments
My crape myrtles (8) are rescued plants from a construction site. I don’t know the name of them, but some have greened out much earlier than others. Your article is very thorough and informative. Would you be willing to address this issue? They are
growing near the sidewalk at the edge of the yard in partial shade in Memphis, TN. The plants have been in this location two (2) years. Thanks.
Can I plant several variety of small crape myrtle in one big whole to give mixed color of flower and leaves ?
No, it’s best to plant in individual holes and cluster them closer together if you wish to achieve a more crowded look.
can cuttings be taken from the mother plant to start new seedlings?
Yes, I did this and simply put them in a glass of water till roots formed then transferred to a pot later.
My crapemyrtle are 2years old.2of then have bloomed this past year.but the other ones have not.Why I have seven.what should I do.? Thanks.
Hi. Thank you so much for the valuable information. I recently bought 3 advanced (45l bag) Crepe MyrtIes Sioux from a nursery and only one of them have flowered. My questions are:
1) What should I do to get the others flowering?
2) The one that has flowered has got light pink flowers whereas I though Sioux had sort of ‘Hot Pink’ flowers. How do I determine whether the ones I have are indeed Sioux?
We just learned that the 5′ in height ‘bush’ with the super bloom of yellow-ish flowers is a Crape Myrtle! After removing the very dried out/rotting trellis’s, the 5′ wide blooming branches slumped to the ground. Now braced with cord attached to adjacent trees, we’re working towards strengthening the four largest trunks. Joshua Tree, California
I have two unidentified crepe myrtles in pots that are beginning to leaf out. One has leaves that are primarily green but tinged with red. The other one’s leaves are predominantly red with only a little green. Does their leaf color indicate anything about what color their flowers will be? I understand that it may be a few years before I see flowers and it would be helpful to get an idea of what I might be able to expect before planting them.
Thanks for the article information and pictures.
What is the difference between a Hopi and Tonto Crape Myrtle trees.. I know the Tonto grows 4 to 10 feet but can’t find info on the HOPI..
We moved into our new-build home 2 years ago in Wilmington, NC.. The landscapers put in a dwarf Crape Myrtle that is beautiful. It’s blooms are deep purple and it’s in full bloom now in early June. Our other Crape Myrtles are just beginning to set buds. We have 2 generic (common to this area) lighter purple trees, a white medium shrub (about 6′ tall), a red Black Diamond and a Natchez. The landscaping company has been no help in identifying this variety. I do remember that someone told me the name was something “…berry.” I have pictures but can’t find a way to attach them. Some of our neighbors would love to have one and I feel sure it was obtained within the southeastern NC counties.
Can you folks help me identify it?
I have just read your informative article about these beautiful trees..
My question is not for public posting, and in no way critical….
I am curious about the way you spell their name… Crape as opposed to Crepe..
One of my very favourite trees….so lovely
Thank you for such a great read!
Where do I go to just one of these beautiful streets?
do crepe mytles grow well in Indiana
Love your site! You speak of it being common for myrtles to have multiple trunks and nearly all the photos show that. Just exactly how does that occur? I am often cutting off bottom sprouts thinking that will send it’s energy to the top. Am I wrong? Should I be letting them grow? (Or at least some of them.) Obviously I’m not an experienced gardner but I love seeing these trees everywhere else and hoping I’m doing enough right that some day mine will look as good. Many thanks for your insight.
I bought three dark red crate Myrtle almost two years ago but I don’t see anything blooming all I can see leafs, can you give me any help. And mean time I want to buy couple dark orange color and couple dark purple color. By any chance you have them in your stock let me know. I appreciate that
I just planted a black diamond. I noticed that you did not mention this variety of Crape Myrtle. I would be interested in how this variety compares with the other varieties.
30 years ago we moved onto our property. We had one shrub that was a crepe myrtle in deep pink. From that time I took volunteers that came up from the original plant and today I have over 20 trees on my property. I have moved or transplanted them at all times of the year except winter. I have never seen anything grow so well with little to no care to it at all.
I have 3 single trunk crepe Myrtle trees. They are Hugh. Between 8 – 10years old. They bloom and blossom beautifully between April and July. Then start prematurely start losing their leaves. By September, they are almost void of leaves. In addition, this year, which didn’t notice before, there is, as my gardener believes, a fungus not on the leaves,but the branches of these 3 trees. Their exfoliation is beautiful from the single trunk to the branches. But, the “fungus” begins with the branches. Don’t mean to be so long winded. But, didn’t know how to explain this. Please help.